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Canyoning Anchors

A review of the anchors used in canyoning.

Overview

Below is a basic review of anchors found in canyons, why they are chosen and their typical advantages and disadvantages. Some anchors have been excluded from this listed as they have no advantages over others featured on this review.

Expansion Bolts

The most common anchor found in the UK canyons. 

(Assuming – Stainless Steel 316 correctly placed into solid rock)

Advantages

  • Quick to install 
  • Strong 
  • Long lasting 
  • Ideal location for pitches

Disadvantages

  • Expensive 
  • Prone to flood damage
  • Heavy
  • Difficult to inspect (90% hidden in the rock)
  • Hangers becoming loose
  • Prone to corrosion
  • Requires a new hole if the bolt is damaged

Glue In Bolts

The strongest form of bolt. 

(Assuming – Titanium, correctly placed into solid rock)

Advantages

  • Extremely Strong 
  • Long lasting 
  • Ideal location for pitches
  • No moving parts
  • High tensile strength 

Disadvantages

  • Expensive 
  • Prone to flood damage
  • Heavy
  • Difficult to inspect (90% hidden in the rock)
  • Requires a new hole if the bolt is damaged

Threads

The best anchor for canyons that flash flood. 

(Assuming – Dyneema Cord)

Advantages

  • Strong (rock dependant) 
  • Ideal location for pitches
  • Inexpensive 
  • Discreet 
  • Drilled hole can be reused if cord is damaged

Disadvantages

  • Requires careful inspection
  • Difficult to determine age of material
  • Difficult to build
  • Requires more drilling than bolts

Self drilling

The quickest bolt to place.

(Assuming – Petzl Cheville Autoforeuse)

Advantages

  • Ideal location for pitches
  • Inexpensive 
  • Lightweight
  • Quick to place
  • Suitable for emergencies 

Disadvantages

  • Can’t be reused 
  • No margin for error when placing
  • Not suitable for soft rock
  • Very difficult to remove 

Natural

The simplest form of anchor to build.

(Assuming – 25mm UIAA Certified tubular webbing around a well rooted tree)

Advantages

  • Strong 
  • Inexpensive
  • Quick to build

Disadvantages

  • Difficult to determine the age of material
  • Position is often not ideal
  • Not all ways available
  • Strength varies depending on tree
  • Damage to the trees

Ghost

A retrievable system that doesn’t require any equipment to be left behind.

(Assuming – Retrievable rig)

Advantages

  • Inexpensive
  • Quick to build
  • Strong
  • Reusable 

Disadvantages

  • Not always possible to build.
  • Strength varies depending on tree
  • May damage trees
  • Increased risk of rope snag
  • Requires falling metal objects

Meat

A useful temporary anchor technique. 

(Assuming – tied off figure eight)

Advantages

  • Strong 
  • Inexpensive
  • Very quick to build
  • Reusable

Disadvantages

  • Not always possible
  • Requires very careful management 
  • Last person needs an alternative way down

Cairn

A temporary anchor that doesn’t require a drill.

(Assuming – 25mm UIAA Certified tubular webbing)

Advantages

  • Inexpensive
  • Quick to build

Disadvantages

  • Difficult to determine the age of material
  • Position is often not ideal
  • Difficult to inspect
  • prone to flood damage
  • Difficult to load

Piton

The original form of anchor.

(Assuming – Steel, Used in solid rock)

Advantages

  • Inexpensive
  • Quick to place

Disadvantages

  • Difficult to determine the age
  • Position may not be ideal
  • Not always possible to place
  • Damage to the rock when placed
  • Temporary
  • Weakens after slight rock movement 
  • Low breaking strength 
  • Quickly deteriorates.  
  • Unsightly 
  • Difficult to inspect